Elston Avenue in Chicago, a thoroughfare stretching 9.5 miles, offers a fascinating study in urban evolution. If you’ve ever pondered what replaced Mike’s Auto Repair on Elston, you’re tapping into a broader story of how city streets transform over time, reflecting shifts in commerce, community, and transportation. While we may not pinpoint a specific “Mike’s Auto Repair,” imagining such a local garage once standing along Elston helps us understand the street’s dynamic past and present.
To truly grasp Elston Avenue, a walk is in order. Inspired by the spirit of pedestrian exploration and an invitation from Rob Reid of the history blog Avondale Time Machine, a journey on foot reveals the layers of history and change embedded in this Chicago artery. Elston Avenue, named after Daniel Elston, a London merchant who made his mark on Chicago in the early 1800s, wasn’t always the bustling street it is today. Elston, arriving in Chicago and acquiring land in River West by 1830, established various businesses – from soap and candles to beer and whiskey – and contributed to the city’s early development as an alderman and school inspector. The path that became Elston Avenue was initially the Woodstock Trail, later a plank toll road owned by Amos Snell, much to the chagrin of local farmers who famously protested the tolls in a manner reminiscent of the Boston Tea Party.
Today, Elston runs parallel to the Kennedy Expressway, serving as a crucial alternative route for motorists seeking to bypass expressway congestion. It’s also a recognized bike-friendly street, offering a calmer option compared to the intensity of Milwaukee Avenue. The installation of protected bike lanes by the Chicago Department of Transportation further solidified Elston’s role in the city’s cycling network. Interestingly, Elston and Milwaukee are unique in Chicago for intersecting twice, creating the “biking the knife” circuit, a route easily visualized on a map.
From Milwaukee Avenue to Industrial Views: The Southern Stretch of Elston
Starting at the southern intersection of Elston and Milwaukee, just north of Chicago Avenue, the initial impression is the vibrant bike traffic on Milwaukee. Setting off north on Elston alone, in hopes of meeting up with the walking group, the protected bike lane is immediately noticeable. While smooth and well-marked, it sees less cyclist traffic than Milwaukee, perhaps due to Elston’s less direct northwest trajectory and fewer retail destinations. The early part of the walk reveals Elston’s less pedestrian-friendly character. Narrow sidewalks and challenging street crossings are juxtaposed with a landscape dominated by industrial buildings, garages, gas stations, and big box stores. Yet, even amidst this utilitarian environment, glimpses of urban beauty emerge. Ascending a small incline towards Division Street and turning back, a striking skyline vista unfolds.
Just before Division, Elston curves northwest, leading past the iconic Morton Salt factory. The umbrella girl logo, painted on the factory roof, is a Chicago landmark, a reminder of the city’s industrial heritage. Approaching North Avenue, the scene shifts slightly with individuals holding cardboard signs seeking assistance from motorists. Above them, the spinning Stanley’s Produce sign, featuring a pipe-smoking caricature riding a watermelon airplane, adds a touch of whimsical local character. North of North Avenue, the protected bike lanes cease, and Elston takes on a more desolate ambiance, highlighting the varied nature of the street as it progresses through different neighborhoods.
Landmarks and Junctions: Navigating the Mid-Section of Elston
At Cortland Street, the Star Carwash marks the way, followed by a significant historical point: the Horween Leather Factory at 2015 North Elston. As one of the oldest tanneries in the United States and the last remaining in Chicago, Horween is renowned as the exclusive leather supplier for NBA basketballs and NFL footballs. Its location at the six-way intersection of Elston, Armitage, and Ashland underscores Elston’s role as a connector. This intersection, notoriously challenging for pedestrians and cyclists, features a faded crosswalk on its north leg, demanding careful navigation amidst turning vehicles.
A few blocks further, the Elston/Fullerton/Damen intersection, often criticized by drivers, presents another significant junction. To alleviate traffic congestion, a major infrastructure project is planned: rerouting Elston through the front lot of the Vienna Beef hotdog factory to bypass this complex intersection. While intended to improve traffic flow, this project comes at a cost – the demolition of WhirlyBall, a unique entertainment venue. Vienna Beef is set to relocate to Bridgeport, and WhirlyBall to Lincoln Park, illustrating the constant reshuffling of businesses and landmarks that define urban spaces like Elston Avenue.
Passing the area dominated by big box stores between Fullerton and Logan, the walking group finally converges at Frank and Mary’s Tavern, 2905 North Elston, a classic Avondale pub. Joining Rob Reid are Elisa Addlesperger, a contributor to his blog, and historian Mike Filipski. The initial confusion about meeting points is quickly resolved with a realization of shared direction, much like the Zax in the Dr. Seuss story. Inside the tavern, amidst taxidermied deer heads, mounted bass, and vintage advertisements, a toast to Daniel Elston is raised, celebrating the namesake of the very street being explored.
Northward Exploration: Culture, Community, and the End of the Line
Leaving the tavern and continuing north into the evening, the setting sun casts a soft pink hue across the sky. At 3219 North Elston, Alywind Musical Instruments, with its “Accordians” sign in slightly askew pink vinyl letters, stands as a testament to enduring local businesses. Bea Zimmerman, the owner, is a musician herself, playing accordion in Rob’s folk band, the Astrohillbillies, further weaving community threads into the fabric of Elston Avenue.
As darkness descends, the walk passes the Kelly Eisenberg hotdog factory near Addison. The scent of honeysuckle near Drave Avenue provides a fragrant interlude. At Irving Park Road, a somewhat awkward right-angle crossing is necessary to stay on Elston heading northwest, highlighting the street’s sometimes unconventional path.
Phixx606Cycles at 4075 North Elston, a newer bike shop specializing in custom fixed-gear bikes for a young, Latino clientele, reflects the evolving demographics and business landscape of the area. The shop’s focus on fixed-gear bikes speaks to the popularity of these affordable and speedy modes of transport among city youth. Further up the street, groups of teenagers socializing on sidewalks in plastic chairs paint a picture of everyday life along Elston.
The Two-Way Grill, a narrow diner nestled between Pulaski and Elston near Montrose, evokes the iconic imagery of Edward Hopper’s “Nighthawks at a Diner.” This area marks the heart of Chicago’s North African community, anchored by the Muslim Community Center at 4380 North Elston. Numerous Moroccan, Algerian, and Tunisian businesses – boutiques, restaurants, delis, and bakeries – contribute to the rich cultural tapestry of this section of Elston.
Crossing over the Edens Expressway, the 5100 block of North Elston reveals a diverse religious landscape: the Trinity Slovak Lutheran Church with its concrete spire, the Knanaya Catholic Society, and the Bong-Bool-Sa Temple, a Korean Buddhist sanctuary in a storefront. This juxtaposition of religious institutions underscores the varied communities that have found a place along Elston Avenue.
At Foster Avenue, a brief detour west leads to Rabbits Bar & Grill, 4945 West Foster, a favorite dive bar with a surprising craft beer selection. As the group settles in, a sudden thunderstorm erupts, drenching the city. Elisa, feeling the effects of the long walk, arranges a ride home.
The final stretch of the walk, in the downpour, passes a DMV facility, the CTA’s Forest Glenn bus garage, and seemingly endless rows of beige postwar two-flats. Regretfully, it’s too late to stop at Smak-Tak, 5961 North Elston, a Polish eatery famed for its pierogies – its name, “Taste-Yes!” in Polish, speaks for itself.
Finally, drenched and tired, the northern intersection of Elston and Milwaukee is reached in the Norwood Park neighborhood. While the others seek refuge in Jet’s Public House, the need for transit home becomes apparent. The late hour means limited public transportation options, a reminder of the challenges of navigating Chicago at night without a car. The flickering neon sign of the Esquire Motel nearby offers a humorous, if slightly unappealing, solution. Ultimately, a taxi office near the bar provides a more comfortable end to the Elston Avenue journey.
While the specific fate of “Mike’s Auto Repair” on Elston remains a mystery – perhaps a figment of our keyword-driven exploration – this walk reveals the larger narrative of change and continuity on this Chicago street. Elston Avenue is a microcosm of urban evolution, where businesses, communities, and landscapes constantly adapt and transform, leaving behind traces of the past while paving the way for the future. Exploring Elston on foot offers a unique lens through which to witness this ongoing story of urban life, prompting us to consider not just what replaced businesses of the past, but what will shape the future of streets like Elston Avenue.
