Accidents happen, and sometimes, despite our best efforts, our cars can get scratched. I recently experienced this firsthand when I backed my car into a tree in an empty road. Thankfully, the damage was limited to my ego and some noticeable deep scratches on my car’s bumper. The damage looked worse in person than in this picture:
My first thought was to take it to the Hyundai service center. They suggested an insurance claim for a full bumper repair or replacement, even for what seemed like a relatively minor issue (a small bumper clip was also broken). Considering it was late in the day, I decided to explore DIY repair options while contemplating my next steps.
I began researching online, specifically looking for paint matching solutions and DIY tutorials on YouTube. That’s when I discovered Com-Paint (https://www.com-paint.com/), a website offering custom-matched spray paint kits for cars. You just need to provide your car’s color code, found on your registration certificate (RC Card). I ordered a kit for my car, and it arrived within a week.
My DIY Background: I’m not a complete novice when it comes to car care. I’ve successfully used wet sanding on a previous vehicle and have experience preparing surfaces for painting from DIY amplifier projects, including sanding and applying clear coats to wooden surfaces.
While painting itself is straightforward, achieving a professional-looking finish is all about the preparation and post-painting steps. The fundamental steps remain consistent across most painting projects, but the intensity and repetition of each step vary based on the specific damage. Before committing to the bumper, I tested the paint from the Com-Paint kit on several areas: inside the trunk (bare paint), a section of the plastic bumper, and the door sill. The color match was excellent in all locations, giving me the confidence to proceed.
I also documented the entire repair process in a video. With numerous steps involved, the raw footage was over 30 minutes long! I edited it down to a more manageable 15 minutes, although in hindsight, splitting it into two parts might have been better for clarity.
| https://youtu.be/lZAX-Jo0HAw |
|---|
Surface Preparation: The Foundation for Flawless Paint Repair
- Cleaning: The first step is to thoroughly clean the damaged area, removing any loose debris or contaminants.
In my case, this involved carefully addressing the rough, jagged edges of the scratch using a sharp blade to trim away loose plastic:
After carefully trimming the loose plastic and smoothing the edges:
-
Wet Sanding (Initial Stage): Next, I used wet sanding with 180-grit sandpaper to initially level the area. For less severe scratches, 320-grit might suffice. The grit choice depends on the depth and severity of the damage. This step is crucial for removing bulges and unevenness. However, caution is needed to avoid sanding too aggressively and thinning or damaging the panel. Drying is essential after wet sanding; the surface must be completely dry before applying body filler.
-
Body Filler Application: This step addresses the deep gouges and scratches. The Com-Paint kit included a ready-to-use body filler paste, simplifying the process. I applied it directly to the scratches using the provided applicator. It’s critical to ensure the scratches are free of any loose particles before applying the filler to ensure proper adhesion and stability. Drying time is crucial for body filler; I allowed approximately 2 hours for it to fully dry.
-
Sanding Body Filler: Once the body filler was dry, I proceeded to sand it. Com-Paint recommended wet sanding with 400-grit sandpaper. The goal here is to blend the filled areas seamlessly with the surrounding panel, carefully following the original contours. This step is paramount; imperfections at this stage are difficult to correct with primer or paint.
Painting Steps: Achieving a Factory Finish
-
Masking: Thorough masking is crucial when painting only a section of the car. Primer and paint particles are fine and can travel far, sticking to unwanted areas. I used masking tape and multiple layers of newspaper to protect surrounding areas, and a car cover for further protection.
-
Plastic Primer Application: Although not part of the standard Com-Paint instructions, I added a plastic primer step. This was necessary because I had sanded down to bare plastic in some areas. Primer is essential for adhesion to bare plastic and body filler. It also acts as a micro-scratch filler, further refining the surface for paint. Drying time for primer is typically a couple of hours, but I allowed it to dry overnight for optimal results.
-
Wet Sanding (Primer): The following day, I wet sanded the primed area using 1000-grit sandpaper. Similar to sanding the body filler, the aim was to ensure the primed surface smoothly transitioned into the surrounding areas. I also addressed any sharp lines created by the masking tape by slightly repositioning the tape. After wet sanding, thorough cleaning and drying are essential.
-
Color Spray Paint Application: This is where the custom-matched spray paint from Com-Paint comes in. The color match was perfect. I applied approximately four coats, allowing about 10 minutes of drying time between each coat.
After applying four coats of the color-matched paint:
-
Masking Adjustment: At this stage, I removed some of the masking tape to expose a larger area of the bumper. This is to allow the finishing solvent to blend seamlessly with the original paint.
-
Wet Sanding (Optional): Typically, 2000-grit wet sanding is needed before applying a clear coat. However, Com-Paint didn’t recommend this, likely because their kit includes a finishing solvent instead of a traditional clear coat.
-
Clear Coat/Finishing Solvent Application: The finishing solvent provided by Com-Paint felt lighter than typical clear coats, almost like a mix of clear coat and paint thinner. I applied four or more sweeping coats, extending beyond the painted area for blending. I unfortunately ran slightly short on solvent and could have used one more coat, especially given the relatively large repair area. Remember, with each step from filler to clear coat, the working area expands for proper blending. This is less critical when painting an entire panel.
After applying the finishing solvent:
- Final Wet Sanding: The final wet sanding stage, starting with 2000-grit and finishing with 2500-grit sandpaper, is essential. This uniform sanding prepares the surface for polishing and achieving a high-gloss finish.
Polishing and Protection: The Final Touches
- Polishing: I allowed the clear coat/finishing solvent to dry for a couple of days. For polishing, I tested Turtle Wax Finishing Compound, 3M 1-Step Compound, and Com-Paint’s compound. Turtle Wax offered the best and fastest results. Polishing requires significant effort (“elbow grease”) but is the most rewarding step as you see the repaired paintwork come to life!
Important Note: Avoid using polishing pad attachments on power tools for this stage, as they can easily cause swirl marks, as I unfortunately discovered near my rear lights. These marks are difficult to remove.
-
Car Wash: After several days of exposure to weather and dust, I gave the car a thorough wash, paying special attention to the newly painted sections.
-
Paint Protection and Waxing: I applied Turtle Wax Seal and Shine for paint protection. Unfortunately, rain prevented me from following up with a waxing step immediately.
I am extremely pleased with the final results! With proper planning, this entire process can be completed over a weekend, including drying times. I started on a Saturday afternoon and dedicated most of Sunday, plus about an hour each on the following days. If you’re considering a similar DIY repair, I highly recommend watching detailed YouTube tutorials and practicing on a small, inconspicuous area before tackling a larger, more visible scratch.
