Discovering a deep scratch on your car can be frustrating. Whether it’s from a stray shopping cart, a misplaced tree branch, or a minor mishap, those unsightly gouges can diminish your car’s appearance and potentially lead to rust if left untreated. Professional repairs can be costly, but the good news is that fixing deep scratches at home is entirely achievable with the right approach and tools. This guide provides a step-by-step method to repair deep scratches on your car yourself, saving you money and restoring your vehicle’s finish.
It happened to me on a seemingly uneventful day – a slight misjudgment while reversing, and suddenly, my car bumped into a tree. Thankfully, the incident was minor, with no injuries or serious damage, except for my pride and a rather prominent deep scratch on my car’s bumper. The damage appeared worse up close than it initially looked.
My first instinct was to get a professional quote. A visit to the Hyundai Service Center confirmed my apprehension – they suggested an insurance claim for a complete bumper repair or replacement. While they pointed out a minor broken bumper clip, the main issue was the deep scratch. Considering it was late in the day, I decided to postpone the repair and explore DIY options.
Driven by curiosity and a desire to save on repair costs, I began researching online solutions, focusing on paint matching and DIY repair videos. I came across Com-Paint (https://www.com-paint.com/), a website offering custom spray paint kits with perfectly matched colors based on your car’s color code (found on your car’s registration certificate). I ordered a kit for my car and received it within a week, feeling optimistic about tackling the repair myself.
My previous DIY experience included successful wet sanding on an older car, and some surface preparation, sanding, and clear coat spraying on wooden amplifier fascias. While not extensive auto body work, these experiences gave me a foundation and the confidence to proceed.
While painting itself might seem straightforward, the key to a flawless finish lies in the preparation and post-painting steps. The fundamental steps remain consistent across various surfaces, but the depth and repetition of each step are dictated by the specific damage. Before committing to the repair, I tested the paint from the Com-Paint kit on three inconspicuous areas of my car: inside the trunk (bare paint), a section of the plastic bumper, and the door sill. The color match was excellent in all locations, giving me the green light to proceed.
To document the process, I also recorded a video. However, with numerous steps involved, the raw footage exceeded 30 minutes! I edited it down to a more manageable 15 minutes, although in retrospect, splitting it into two parts might have been beneficial for clarity.
| https://youtu.be/lZAX-Jo0HAw |
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| Watch the DIY repair process on YouTube. |
Surface Preparation: The Foundation for a Flawless Repair
Proper surface preparation is critical for achieving a professional-looking deep scratch repair. This stage ensures proper adhesion of body filler, primer, and paint, and contributes significantly to the final finish quality.
- Cleaning the Surface: Begin by thoroughly cleaning the damaged area. Remove any loose debris, dirt, or wax from the scratch and the surrounding area. Use soap and water or a dedicated car wash solution.
In my case, the scratch had some rough, jagged plastic edges that needed attention before cleaning. I carefully trimmed these protruding pieces using a sharp blade to create a smoother surface to work with.
After carefully removing the loose and uneven plastic fragments, the area was ready for the next step – wet sanding.
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Wet Sanding: Wet sanding is essential to smooth out the scratch edges and prepare the surface for body filler. Use 180 or 320 grit wet sandpaper, depending on the scratch severity. For deeper scratches and more uneven surfaces, start with a coarser grit like 180 and gradually move to 320. Keep the sandpaper and the area wet while sanding. This step helps level out any bulges and feather the edges of the scratch. Be cautious not to sand too aggressively, as you could thin the panel or even create a hole. Once sanded, thoroughly dry the area. It’s crucial that the surface is completely dry before applying body filler.
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Body Filler Application: Body filler is used to fill in deep gouges and scratches, bringing the damaged area level with the surrounding paint. My Com-Paint kit included a ready-to-use body filler paste, simplifying this step. Using the provided applicator, carefully apply the filler into the deep scratch. Ensure the area is free of any remaining debris, as this can compromise the filler’s stability. Allow the body filler to dry completely. I waited approximately two hours for it to harden sufficiently. Drying times may vary depending on the product and environmental conditions.
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Sanding Body Filler: Once the body filler is dry, it needs to be sanded smooth and flush with the surrounding surface. You can dry sand or wet sand body filler. Com-Paint recommended wet sanding, so I proceeded with 400 grit wet sandpaper. The goal is to shape the filler to match the original contours of the car panel. This is a critical step for the final appearance. Imperfect sanding at this stage will be difficult to correct with primer or paint later. Take your time and ensure a smooth transition between the filled area and the original paint.
Painting Steps: Restoring the Color and Finish
With the surface properly prepared, the painting process can begin. These steps involve masking, priming, painting, and applying a clear coat or finishing solvent to achieve a seamless repair.
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Masking the Area: Masking is crucial to protect the surrounding paint from overspray. Even seemingly invisible atomized paint particles can travel and adhere to unintended surfaces. Use high-quality masking tape and paper or newspaper to carefully cover the areas around the scratch. I used multiple layers of newspaper and a car cover to provide ample protection to the rest of the car.
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Applying Plastic Primer: While not always necessary, I added a plastic primer step, which wasn’t explicitly recommended in the Com-Paint instructions. Since I had sanded down to bare plastic in some areas, primer was essential for proper paint adhesion. Primer also acts as a micro-scratch filler, further smoothing the surface. Apply primer to any bare plastic or body filler areas. Allow the primer to dry thoroughly. While primer often dries within a couple of hours, I opted to let it dry overnight to ensure complete curing.
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Wet Sanding Primer: The next day, I wet sanded the primed area using 1000 grit sandpaper. Similar to sanding the body filler, the goal is to blend the primed surface seamlessly with the surrounding original paint. Pay attention to any sharp lines created by the masking tape. I slightly moved the masking tape outwards to ensure a smooth transition. After wet sanding, thoroughly clean the surface to remove any sanding residue and allow it to dry completely.
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Spray Painting: This is where the color-matched paint from Com-Paint comes into play. The color match was indeed perfect. I applied approximately four coats of paint, allowing about 10 minutes of drying time between each coat. Apply thin, even coats, building up coverage gradually to avoid runs and drips.
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Masking Tape Adjustment: At this point, I removed some of the masking tape to expose a wider area around the newly painted section. This is to allow the finishing solvent to blend seamlessly with the existing car paint.
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Wet Sanding (Optional for Clear Coat): Wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper is typically recommended if you are using a standard clear coat. However, in my case, the Com-Paint kit included a “Finishing Solvent” instead of a traditional clear coat, and this step was not suggested.
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Clear Coat/Finishing Solvent Application: The finishing solvent provided in the Com-Paint kit felt lighter than conventional clear coats, almost like a blend of clear coat and paint thinner. I applied four or more sweeping coats, extending slightly beyond the painted area to ensure proper blending. I did run out of solvent before I felt completely satisfied, as the repair area was larger than anticipated. Remember that with each step, from filler to clear coat, the working area tends to expand slightly to achieve a smooth transition. This differs from painting an entire panel, where the edges are predetermined.
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Final Wet Sanding: The last round of wet sanding is crucial for achieving a high-gloss finish. I used 2000 grit sandpaper, followed by 2500 grit, for this final smoothing. Consistent wet sanding at this stage is key to achieving a fine, polished look after buffing.
Polishing and Protection: The Finishing Touches
The final stages involve polishing the repaired area to a shine and applying protective wax or sealant to ensure longevity and protect the new paint.
- Polishing: I allowed the clear coat/finishing solvent to dry completely for a couple of days. For polishing, I tested Turtle Wax Finishing Compound, 3M 1-Step Compound, and Com-Paint’s polishing compound on different sections of the repaired area. I found that Turtle Wax Finishing Compound provided the quickest and best results. Polishing requires some effort – be prepared to use some “elbow grease.” This is the most rewarding step, as you witness the scratch disappear and the shine return.
Important Note: Avoid using power tools with aggressive polishing pads, especially for beginners. I experimented with a polishing pad attachment for a drill and accidentally created harsh scuff marks near the taillights, which were difficult to remove. Hand polishing is generally safer for DIY repairs.
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Car Wash: After several days of intermittent weather and dust accumulation, I gave the entire car, including the newly painted section, a thorough car wash and drying.
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Paint Protection and Waxing: To protect the newly repaired and polished paint, I applied Turtle Wax Seal and Shine. Unfortunately, rain started shortly after, preventing me from following up with a dedicated waxing step. Waxing adds an extra layer of protection and enhances the shine.
Overall, I was very satisfied with the outcome of this DIY deep scratch repair. With proper planning, the entire process, including drying times, can be completed over a weekend. I started on a Saturday afternoon, dedicated most of Sunday afternoon, and spent about an hour each on the following couple of days. If you are considering a similar DIY repair, I highly recommend watching numerous YouTube tutorials and practicing on a small, inconspicuous area before tackling a more prominent scratch. With patience and attention to detail, repairing deep scratches on your car at home is a rewarding and cost-effective endeavor.
