A worn steering wheel, while a testament to your classic car’s rich history and the miles you’ve enjoyed together, can detract from the overall pristine condition of your vintage or youngtimer vehicle. Cracks, wear and tear, and general degradation can make this focal point of your interior look out of place against an otherwise meticulously maintained classic. Restoring your steering wheel can significantly enhance your car’s interior and driving experience.
This guide will walk you through the process of restoring a classic car steering wheel, providing insights on whether DIY restoration is feasible or if professional help is the better route. We’ll explore different steering wheel materials and offer step-by-step instructions to bring your classic steering wheel back to its former glory.
Restore or Replace Your Classic Steering Wheel? Weighing Your Options
When faced with a deteriorated steering wheel, the initial thought might be to simply replace it. This is certainly an option, especially if the existing steering wheel is not original to the car or if you’re seeking a different style. Many reputable suppliers like Moto-Lita, Mountney, Momo, and Booklands continue to offer classic steering wheel designs. Depending on your desired style – sporty, elegant, or period-correct – a wide variety of replacements are available. However, be prepared to invest anywhere from $300 to $1000 or more for a quality classic sports steering wheel.
For the dedicated classic car enthusiast and DIYer, restoring the original steering wheel offers a more economical and rewarding path. With a budget of around $50 for materials, DIY restoration allows you to preserve the originality of your vehicle while honing your restoration skills. This approach is particularly appealing if you appreciate the hands-on process of bringing your classic car back to its best.
Is Steering Wheel Restoration the Right Choice? Assessing the Damage
Steering wheel restoration is a viable solution for a range of common issues, including minor defects like scratches, cracks, and general wear. With the correct techniques, knowledge, and a bit of patience, these imperfections can be effectively addressed.
The feasibility of DIY restoration largely depends on the material of your steering wheel:
- Leather Steering Wheels: Typically constructed with a metal core and a shaped cover, then wrapped in leather. Damage is often limited to the leather itself, making repairs relatively straightforward.
- Wooden Steering Wheels: Similar to leather wheels, they have a metal core with a wooden outer layer. Damage to the wood veneer or finish can be repaired, though color matching can be challenging.
- Plastic Steering Wheels: Often original equipment, these consist of a metal core coated in thermosetting or thermoplastic material. Original Bakelite steering wheels are particularly valuable and complex to restore professionally, while thermoplastic wheels from the 1950s onwards can sometimes be effectively restored with paint and refinishing techniques.
Let’s delve into the specific restoration approaches for each type of steering wheel.
DIY vs. Professional Steering Wheel Restoration: Making the Call
Once you’ve decided on restoration, the next critical question is whether to tackle it yourself or entrust the task to a professional. This decision isn’t always clear-cut. Classic car steering wheels have been crafted from a diverse array of materials throughout automotive history, including hard plastic, wood, leather, chrome, PVC, and combinations thereof. Steering wheels incorporating multiple materials, such as wood on a metal frame, often demand specialized techniques that go beyond the scope of a general guide.
Therefore, a universal recommendation for DIY versus professional restoration is difficult to make. It hinges on your assessment of your own skills, experience, and the complexity of your steering wheel’s material and damage.
Opinions vary widely on this topic. Some argue that steering wheel restoration, particularly when dealing with cracks, fractures, or significant wear, is best left to professionals due to the potential for errors and the value of preserving originality. Others believe that with adequate preparation and information, a DIY approach is achievable and rewarding.
If you’re well-informed and prepared, attempting a steering wheel restoration yourself is certainly within reach. Using the right materials and applying careful technique are key to success. Let’s explore the step-by-step processes for restoring different types of classic car steering wheels.
Restoring a Leather Steering Wheel: Reviving Supple Elegance
A high-quality leather steering wheel demands proper care to maintain its luxurious feel and appearance. Here’s how to restore a worn leather steering wheel and bring back its original luster. You’ll need leather cleaner, leather dye or recoloring balm in the correct shade, and a leather conditioning product.
Tip: While you can restore the steering wheel in situ, removing it from the car and working on a stable surface is generally easier. This prevents awkward working angles and minimizes the risk of spills. Disconnect the steering wheel at the hub, not further up the steering column.
Step 1: Thorough Cleaning
Begin by cleaning the undamaged leather areas with a gentle leather cleaner to remove all surface dirt and grime. Crucially, avoid applying cleaner directly to damaged areas, as this can cause the leather to swell and further complicate repairs. Damaged areas require degreasing. Use a clean cloth dampened with benzine or a dedicated leather degreaser to carefully clean these sections.
Tip: If your leather steering wheel is heavily saturated with grease (often from hand oils over decades), restoration by re-coloring may not be effective. A simple test is to apply masking tape to the leather. If it doesn’t adhere well, the leather is likely too saturated and re-covering by a professional upholsterer might be the best solution.
Step 2: Smoothing Imperfections
Rough spots and minor surface imperfections can be smoothed using fine-grit sandpaper. Start with a grit around 120 to gently level rough areas, then refine the surface with progressively finer grits such as 600 and 1000. Ensure you thoroughly remove all sanding dust with a tack cloth or compressed air before proceeding.
Step 3: Applying Leather Dye or Recolorant
Apply the leather dye or recoloring balm in thin, even coats. Before applying to the entire wheel, test the color match in an inconspicuous area, such as the back of a spoke. Apply multiple thin coats, allowing each coat to dry according to the product instructions, until you achieve the desired color opacity and evenness.
Step 4: Final Finish and Protection
Allow the newly dyed steering wheel to dry completely, ideally overnight in a warm, dust-free environment. Once fully dry, apply a leather sealant or conditioner specifically designed for steering wheels. This will protect the restored leather from wear, UV damage, and moisture, ensuring your work lasts and the leather remains supple.
Important Note: Avoid using shoe polish on leather steering wheels, despite some recommendations you might find online. Shoe polish is not designed for this purpose and will likely rub off onto your hands during driving, creating a mess and a less-than-professional result. Shoe polish can, however, be used sparingly to temporarily soften leather areas that have become hardened from sun exposure, but the color transfer issue remains.
Restoring Bakelite and Hard Plastic Steering Wheels: Addressing Cracks and Damage
Following the invention of Bakelite, the first synthetic plastic, various other plastics have been broadly categorized under this name in automotive applications. Bakelite and hard plastic steering wheels typically consist of a metal core with a Bakelite or hard plastic outer shell. Bakelite was favored for its heat resistance and durability.
However, Bakelite and early plastics are prone to cracking over time. Temperature fluctuations causing differential expansion, or mechanical stresses from gripping and turning the wheel, can lead to cracks and necessitate repair. In severe cases, extensive cracking may make restoration impractical. If repair is feasible, a restoration process using a multi-tool, sandpaper, epoxy resin filler, and specialized paint can be effective.
Step 1: Milling Out Cracks
For larger and deeper cracks, use a multi-function rotary tool with a milling bit to carefully widen and deepen the cracks. This removes loose material and creates a clean channel for the filler to adhere properly. Mill down to the original, sound plastic material.
Step 2: Removing Old Paint and Residue
Next, thoroughly remove all traces of old paint from the steering wheel. This can be achieved with sandpaper, starting with coarser grits to remove the bulk of the paint and progressing to finer grits for a smooth surface. After sanding, meticulously remove all dust and milling debris. Clean the steering wheel with a silicone remover or wax and grease remover to ensure a perfectly clean surface for the filler and paint to adhere to.
Step 3: Filling Cracks and Gaps
Now, fill the milled cracks with a suitable filler. You have two primary options:
- Epoxy Resin or Epoxy Compound: This is the professional-grade solution, offering superior strength, durability, and adhesion, particularly to metal cores.
- 2K Polyester Resin: A more affordable alternative to epoxy, but with slightly lower adhesive properties, especially on metal. This can be a viable option for plastic-only steering wheels or minor repairs if epoxy isn’t readily available.
For larger cracks, consider inserting a reinforcing element, such as thin wire or fiberglass mesh, into the crack before filling to provide added structural integrity.
When using epoxy compound, ensure you press the filler firmly into the cracks, working it down to the metal core to completely fill the void. If the compound becomes too sticky to handle, lightly wetting your gloved fingers with water can help.
Tip: For simple, straight cracks often found at the mold parting lines of the steering wheel rim, a polyurethane (PU) sealant can be an effective solution. Mask off both sides of the crack with tape, apply the PU sealant into the crack, and then smooth it with a finger dipped in soapy water. Once cured, the sealant can be sanded flush and painted.
Step 4: Sanding and Shaping
Once the filler has cured completely (refer to the product instructions for drying times), begin sanding to shape. Start with a multi-tool or coarse sandpaper to roughly level any excess filler, then switch to progressively finer sandpaper grits (e.g., 120, 400, then 600) to achieve a smooth, even surface ready for painting. If your steering wheel has nicks, scratches, or other damage beyond the filled cracks, sand these areas to blend them seamlessly into the surrounding surface.
Step 5: Cleaning and Priming
Thoroughly clean the entire steering wheel again with silicone remover to eliminate any remaining dust or sanding residue. Apply a high-build filling primer specifically designed for plastics. Allow the primer to dry completely for at least 24 hours. The next day, sand the primer smooth using fine-grit sandpaper (600 grit or finer). This creates an ideal base for the topcoat paint.
Step 6: Painting and Finishing
With the primer fully cured and sanded, you can proceed with painting. Apply several thin, even coats of automotive paint or 2-K polyurethane acrylic lacquer, allowing sufficient flash time between coats as specified by the paint manufacturer. Once the final coat of lacquer has fully cured, it can be polished to your desired level of shine, from satin to high gloss.
Tip: Achieving a professional-quality paint finish requires attention to detail. Cleanliness is paramount – work in a dust-free environment. Ensure chemical compatibility between all materials used (primer, paint, clear coat). Patience is also essential – allow adequate drying time between coats and avoid rushing any step. If working in a garage, lightly misting the air with a spray bottle of water can help settle airborne dust particles before painting.
Restoring a Wooden Steering Wheel: Preserving Natural Beauty
Scratches, cracks, chips, and dents are just as undesirable on a wooden steering wheel as on any other type. However, restoring wooden steering wheels presents unique challenges due to the natural variation and character of wood.
Wood is a natural material, and no two wooden steering wheels are exactly alike. Whether you have a rich mahogany Nardi wheel or one crafted from birch, it’s crucial to gather detailed information and ideally seek expert advice before attempting restoration. If you lack experience in woodworking and finishing, professional restoration is generally recommended, especially because stain color matching requires considerable skill and experience. However, if you are determined to undertake DIY restoration, here’s a general approach:
Step 1: Removing the Existing Coating
The first step is to carefully remove the old varnish or coating. Use a paint stripper specifically formulated for wood finishes. Apply it cautiously and work in small sections, being very careful not to damage or unnecessarily remove the wood itself. If the coating is a tough epoxy, paint stripper may only soften it. In this case, you might need to use fine steel wool or, if you are skilled, very fine sandpaper (though sanding is generally less recommended for removing the initial coating to avoid uneven removal).
Step 2: Cleaning the Bare Wood
Once the old coating is removed, clean the bare wood steering wheel with mild soap and water. Dish soap can help to draw out any remaining traces of old finish and reveal the wood grain more clearly. It also helps to degrease the wood and highlight any imperfections. A drawback of water-based cleaning is that the wood must then dry thoroughly for approximately a week before proceeding to the next steps.
Step 3: Closing Cracks and Gaps
For cracks, use screw clamps or woodworking clamps to carefully close them. For very fine cracks, strong twine or even clothesline can be used. Be aware that twine or clothesline may leave slight impressions in the wood if over-tightened.
Apply clamping pressure gradually, aiming to close the cracks into hairline fractures without denting or damaging the wood. Once you’ve determined the appropriate clamping pressure to effectively close the cracks, you can proceed to the next step.
Step 4: Filling Cracks with Epoxy
Use clear epoxy resin to glue the closed cracks. Avoid using quick-setting 5-minute epoxy, as it will likely cure too rapidly to allow you to work on the entire wheel at once effectively.
Caution: Do not use standard wood glue, as it is not heat-resistant and can fail under the high temperatures that steering wheels can reach inside a car in summer.
Use a toothpick or a fine applicator to carefully inject epoxy into the hairline cracks. Once all cracks are filled, re-apply the clamps from Step 3 to close the cracks tightly while the epoxy cures. If you’re using clamps, carefully wipe away any excess epoxy that squeezes out of the cracks with a clean cloth dampened with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits.
Tip: For smaller imperfections or chips that are difficult to close completely, a two-part wood filler tinted with wood stain to match the surrounding wood can be used. Experiment with mixing stain into the filler to achieve the correct color match before applying it to the steering wheel. This process requires experience or assistance from a professional wood restorer or carpenter. For larger imperfections, you can attempt to fill them with wood slivers or create a custom wood filler using sawdust from the same type of wood as your steering wheel, mixed with epoxy resin.
Step 5: Sanding and Smoothing
If you used twine or clothesline for clamping, carefully remove any lint residue and excess epoxy with a blunt knife or scraper first. Then, use sandpaper to remove dried epoxy and level the filled areas. Start with 220 grit sandpaper, progressing to 400 and then 600 grit, using wet-and-dry sandpaper for the finer grits. After sanding, wipe the steering wheel with a damp sponge to raise the wood fibers. Allow it to dry completely, and then lightly sand again with 600 grit sandpaper or 0000 steel wool to achieve a smooth final surface.
Step 6: Applying the Finish
The final step is to apply a clear coat finish to protect the wood and enhance its beauty. When the first coat of clear varnish or lacquer is dry, lightly sand again with very fine steel wool or 600 grit sandpaper to level any imperfections and create a smooth base for the next coat. Apply a second coat of clear finish. Remember to follow the same best practices for painting described earlier: cleanliness, compatible materials, and patience.
For a more authentic, classic look that reflects the age of the car (an old steering wheel would not have had a modern, high-gloss finish), consider using wood oil instead of clear varnish. Apply wood oil liberally, allow it to soak in, and then buff to a satin sheen. Seal the oiled wood with a coat of high-quality furniture wax for added protection and a traditional finish.
Conclusion: A Rewarding Restoration Journey
Ultimately, the decision to restore your classic car’s steering wheel yourself or opt for professional services depends on your skills, comfort level, and the specific needs of your vehicle. Whether you choose to preserve the authentic original or enhance it with a meticulously reworked steering wheel, the effort invested will undoubtedly enhance your driving experience and the overall value of your classic car.
If you have any questions specific to your classic car model or steering wheel materials, don’t hesitate to reach out to us. Contact us via phone or our online contact form – we’re here to assist you in your classic car restoration journey.
